Of all the things I expected when I went to the Great Wall of China, getting vertigo was not one. But I did. Looking backwards after climbing up the steep steps (built for people a lot taller than me, by the way) was quite dizzying. It was also quite incredible.
We’ve all seen pictures of the wall, and fans of the BBC TV programme Race Across the World will remember it was the start point of the latest series, but nothing prepares you for the real thing.
Which neatly sums up everything about China. Whether it be the enormity of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City in Beijing or the Three Gorges Dam, a concrete giant 1.4 miles long, 377 feet wide and dubbed China’s new Great Wall, it has to be seen to be believed.
And then there are the Terracotta Warriors, a vast army of soldiers, each more than six feet tall, built to guard Emperor Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife. To think they date back more than 2,200 years, and were only discovered buried in farmland 50 years ago, is beyond extraordinary.
So, how exciting to see ROL Cruise has teamed up with Wendy Wu Tours to offer a 13-night cruise tour in November (and also on four departure dates in 2026) that visits all these amazing places, adds a couple of nights in Shanghai at the start and even manages to squeeze in a relaxing four-night cruise on the Yangtze River.
What a fabulous way to see a lot in a short time without having to worry about the languages, reading train timetables or navigating restaurant menus. All sightseeing and meals are included, and there will be English-speaking guides on hand to tell you what’s what. Wendy Wu will even sort out your visa for free, which is such a bonus. Never mind the cost, filling out the forms and organising it all can be a nightmare.
The cruise itself begins with a visit to the dam, which is the world’s largest hydroelectric power plant and a lot more interesting than it sounds, especially if you are a bit of a lock-geek like me.
Back on board, your river ship will navigate the locks, and the journey through the famous Three Gorges begins.
Years ago, when they started to build the dam, many feared the rising water level would put an end to cruises on the Yangtze. They were wrong. The gorges are still deep, the scenery is still stunning, and the craggy peaks soaring 900 metres into the sky are still often covered in mist, which gives them a mystical air.
Xiling Gorge and Qutang Gorge (Witches Gorge) are regarded as ‘strong men’ by the Chinese, but Wu Gorge, in the middle, is seen as a woman as it is surrounded by more gentle mountains covered with trees and grass. As you sail through, guides will share stories of the legends that surround them. Expect tales of wicked dragons and a rock that was once a goddess.
You’ll also have a small boat cruise along the narrow Shennong Stream, a narrow tributary with its own three gorges where sharp eyes might spot hanging coffins, an old plank road carved in the rock and monkeys.
After the peace and quiet of the river, Chongqing, where the cruise ends, is a bit of a shock with its neon lights and lively buzz. The capital of China was moved here between 1937 and 1946 during the war with Japan, as it is protected all around by high mountains.
The city is also the birthplace of Chinese hotpot, which I love, but rest assured, it is nothing like our Lancashire version. With luck, you’ll get to try it in Chengdu, the next stop on the tour, to visit the city’s famed panda reserve.
And then you’re off again, this time by bullet train, first to Xi’an for two nights to see those Terracotta Warriors, then on to Beijing, for a tour of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, an evening at a Chinese acrobatic show and a final morning excursion to walk the Great Wall. Just don’t look back!
