There was me thinking the old ways have disappeared when it comes to making wine. Not at Quinta da Pacheca, a winery in Portugal’s Douro Valley, they haven’t.
I’m standing by the quinta’s lagares (wine press) where, come September, grapes are crushed by foot. “It takes 30 minutes to stomp from one side to the other, then they turn and go back again,” Carlos tells us. “Visitors do it and then come back two years later to drink ‘their’ wine.”
Happily, I don’t have to wait that long as he takes us via cavernous cellars where wine is stored in huge barrels for anything from one year to 30, depending on whether they are making pink, white, tawny or ruby port, to the tasting room, where, naturally, we have to try all four varieties.
No, I’d never heard of pink port either! But it’s the new kid on the block in Portugal, created with the younger cocktail-drinking generation in mind, as it works with mixers to make a long summer drink.
I love river cruising for so many reasons, but number one is that no matter where you are sailing, there is always a view - a picturesque town here or a cathedral or castle there - and every day brings new adventures and experiences.
It might be tasting that pink port in Portugal, tucking into oliebollen in Amsterdam (think deep-fried doughnuts) or imbibing smoked beer in the German town of Bamberg (an acquired taste I’ve never acquired).
The Rhine River has Strasbourg, a beautiful city that has changed hands between France and Germany so many times over the centuries that the two cultures have blended together, especially when it comes to food.
There’s a treasure trove of ancient Roman amphitheatres, temples and the stunning Pont du Gard to discover while cruising the Rhone River in France; choose the Seine River to visit D-Day landing beaches and the impressive Palace of Versailles.
I also love that river cruising is so inclusive. Companies such as APT Cruising, Scenic River Cruises, Emerald River Cruises and Uniworld River Cruises include so much - some or all drinks, excursions and tips - you can sit back and enjoy the ride without fretting about the budget.
And then, there are the stylish new river ships which hold an average of just 160 people (size is dictated by the locks and bridges they have to squeeze through and under). Cabins and suites face the river, most have panoramic windows that open wide to let the outside in, and there are various places to eat, swimming pools, and even cinemas.
Back on the Douro River, I’m on MS Estrela, a beautiful new river ship APT Cruising launched this year that sails eight-day cruises from Porto to the border with Spain and back. Holding just 120 passengers, it is decked out in warm colours that reflect the destination and has a swimming pool on the sundeck where you can keep cool on a hot summer's day without missing the fabulous scenery.
There are verdant vineyards, some no bigger than a handkerchief, as far as the eye can see, pretty riverside twins, deep locks, sheer cliffs, and rock-strewn narrows where you can almost reach out and touch the backs.
So far, so Europe; I haven’t even started on the wonderful adventures that await me on rivers in Asia, India, Peru and Egypt. One for another day.
