Written by Sophie from HX
I had travelled to Norway before and had always been captivated by its breathtaking fjords and, of course, the magic of the Northern Lights.
But this journey was different. For the first time, I truly experienced the Norwegian way of life and discovered the beauty of the remote places that are far beyond the reach of public transport or planes.
Day 1: Tromsø
We boarded the beautiful MS Spitsbergen, a 150-passenger expedition ship. After settling into our recently refurbished cabins, we enjoyed our first dinner on board.
Meals throughout the voyage were served buffet-style, but the quality was exceptional, with locally-sourced ingredients that allowed us to truly experience Norwegian cuisine.
The ship also had two restaurants, including Brygga, a cosy bistro-style spot perfect for quick lunches, dinners, or snacks. I definitely ate far too many Norwegian waffles and cinnamon buns - but when in Norway, how could you not?
Day 2: Lyngen Fjords
Our first landing was in Årøya, a place rich in World War II history. Here, we walked through deep snow in a true winter wonderland, surrounded by silent forest and crisp Arctic air.
During the walk, Magnus, the historian on board, stopped with us by one of the old bunkers hidden beneath the snow. His storytelling was so captivating that everyone stood in complete silence, absorbed in tales of the region’s wartime past.
That evening, we were lucky enough to witness the Northern Lights - and even luckier to see them for four more nights after that.
Day 3: Senja
Today’s landing was on Tranøya, or “Crane Island,” a place with over 2,000 years of human history. A local farmstead, run by two women who have lived there for more than seven years, welcomed us - along with the true stars of the island: the sheep.
The area has a rich Viking history, and we enjoyed a fascinating talk in the local church about its past. From the church grounds, we could see the graveyard, where burials still honour Viking traditions through patterns of stones. We spent time walking along the beach, exploring the museum, enjoying the café, and browsing locally-made artisan goods.
Then came the moment for the brave among us - the polar plunge off the tender platform. The certificate I received afterwards made the icy shock completely worth it, although I was very grateful for the sauna waiting for me afterwards.
Day 4: Lofoten Islands
Sund was best described as stepping straight into Narnia.
Untouched wilderness, fresh snow, and breathtaking landscapes surrounded us during a three-hour hike through this magical part of the Lofoten Islands. There were no towns, no crowds, no sounds except the silence of nature around us.
At the top of the hike, we were rewarded with stunning views over a frozen lake - perfect for photography and one of my proudest photo moments of the entire trip.
Later, Morten, the onboard trollologist, gave us a wonderfully entertaining talk about the different trolls said to inhabit the islands.
Day 5: Lofoten Islands
We arrived in Svolvær to an unforgettable sight - a pod of orcas speeding past the ship. You had to be quick to catch them, but it perfectly captured the spirit of expedition travel: a true safari at sea where you must always be watching.
Day 6: Trollfjord & Stokmarknes
We enjoyed a scenic Zodiac cruise around Wolf Island, where we were lucky enough to spot several sea eagles soaring overhead. In the afternoon, we arrived in Stokmarknes for an evening at the museum, complete with dinner.
Day 7: Sandøya
Our final day was the perfect ending to an unforgettable trip.
We had time to freely explore the island, where seals were spotted along the shore. A bonfire was set up on the beach, where we enjoyed the most delicious reindeer hot dogs. Those who chose to kayak that day had an incredible experience.
The trip ended with a presentation from the on-board photographer, who shared a beautiful video montage of our journey. There were definitely a few tears as we reflected on what had been such an extraordinary experience.
Sophie’s final thoughts
Overall, Norway offers a softer style of expedition and is perfect for first-time explorers who may be unsure about this kind of travel.
It is, without doubt, one of the best ways to experience Norway and truly live like a local.
From the dramatic scenery and outdoor adventures to the storytelling, cuisine, and unforgettable wildlife encounters, this journey has given me memories that will last a lifetime.
