Staff Stories: A journey of a lifetime through Antarctica

“If you can describe Antarctica, you haven’t been there” – Captain Trond of MS Roald Amundsen. Join ROL Cruise team member Rebecca as she embarks on the journey of a lifetime to Antarctica with HX. 

After a long flight to Buenos Aires and an overnight stay in the vibrant capital, it was time to continue our journey south to Ushuaia. Upon arrival in the southernmost city in the world and the capital of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) Province, we had the morning free to explore. We visited the stunning Tierra del Fuego National Park for lunch and then set out on the quarter-mile hike to the beaver dam system on the Los Castores stream. 

After an unforgettable morning, we made our way to the ship. Embarkation was seamless, and my first impression of the vessel far exceeded expectations – sleek, contemporary, and more modern than I had imagined. 

Our first day at sea gave me the perfect opportunity to explore the ship and take full advantage of the impressive onboard facilities. My first stop was at the gym, which I was pleased to find had everything I needed for a great workout. Feeling energised, I followed it up with a refreshing dip in the outdoor pool – if the gym hadn’t already woken me up, the brisk swim certainly did! 

Later in the afternoon, I attended my first onboard lecture – a fascinating introduction to tourism in Antarctica that provided valuable context for the adventures ahead. As the day went on, I began to notice that I still hadn’t quite managed to find my sea legs, so I opted for an early night and caught up on some much-needed rest after the whirlwind of travel. 

Another day at sea, and I was quickly setting into a satisfying morning routine – starting with a workout in the gym followed by a swim. With the day stretching ahead, I decided to indulge in a little extra relaxation and booked a massage at the spa. It was the perfect way to unwind and recharge. A quick tip: spa appointments on sea days tend to book up quickly, so it’s worth checking out the spa menu in your cabin or visiting the spa desk early in the voyage to secure your spot. 

Later in the day, I attended a couple of engaging lectures. The first, An A–Z of Expedition Explorers, was presented by Expedition Team member Henryk and offered an intriguing insight into the pioneers who first braved these remote regions. The second lecture focused on glaciers and the Antarctic Ice Sheet, providing even more context for the incredible scenery we were about to witness. 

That evening, we were fortunate to visit the fine dining restaurant Lindstrøm. Every course was beautifully prepared and full of flavour. Afterwards, we gathered in the bar for a few drinks, sharing stories and our growing excitement for what lay ahead. With Antarctica on the horizon, we all turned in early, ready to wake up to an unforgettable new world.

Waking up on our first day in Antarctica truly felt like arriving somewhere extraordinary. I was lucky enough to have a balcony cabin (which I highly recommend), and the moment I pulled back the curtains, I audibly gasped – something I found myself doing every morning. The view was breathtaking: towering icebergs, snow- and ice-covered mountains, calm seas, and a brilliant blue sky stretching overhead. 

With my complimentary HX windproof jacket on, I headed straight out on deck. The sun was shining, the wind was crisp, and I was utterly in awe of just how beautiful blocks of ice could be. 

That morning, we were invited to tour the ship’s suite cabins. What stood out most to me wasn’t just the extra interior space but the generous balcony areas – many complete with private hot tubs and panoramic Antarctic views. Complimentary extras for Suites include a free minibar and laundry service. 

After exploring the suites, I joined a lecture on whales with Expedition Team member Matthew – fondly known onboard as “the whale guy”. It was a thoroughly engaging session where we learned about the different species we might encounter. Matthew brought the topic to life with passion and deep knowledge. 

By the afternoon, it was time to suit up for our first zodiac adventure – an experience I had been eagerly anticipating! Layers are essential in Antarctica, and my outfit for the excursion included thermal base layers (leggings and a long-sleeve top), a fleece-lined jumper, waterproof and windproof trousers and jacket, a hat, and sunglasses. HX provided the rubber-soled “muck” boots and a life jacket – both mandatory for all landings and thoughtfully supplied as part of the expedition gear. 

Our first outing was a 45-minute zodiac cruise with one of the Expedition Team members, gliding through icy waters and soaking in the surreal surroundings. Afterwards, we returned to the ship for a quick lunch before heading out again – this time for our first Antarctic landing. 

We stepped ashore on the rocky terrain of Pleneau Island and were immediately greeted by a bustling penguin colony – the first of many close encounters with these charming residents. The Expedition Team had carefully marked walking routes with cones earlier in the day, and we were briefed on how to move around respectfully, keeping a safe distance from the wildlife. 

After soaking up the experience and snapping plenty of photos, we returned to the ship for a relaxed dinner in Aune. It was South America night, and the food was fantastic—flavourful, vibrant, and a perfect end to an incredible day. Afterwards, we headed to the bar for a nightcap, sharing highlights from the day and enjoying the warm atmosphere onboard. 

I spent the morning in the Science Centre attending a hands-on lecture where we examined water samples under a microscope – identifying phytoplankton and zooplankton. (A sentence I never thought I’d say!) It was a fascinating glimpse into the microscopic life that thrives in Antarctic waters. Later that morning, I attended another lecture on the Evolution of Penguins. It was fascinating to learn about the different species, especially as we were seeing some of them firsthand during our landings. 

Soon, we were off exploring once again. After sailing through the breathtaking ice-scapes of the Lemaire Channel – a true highlight in itself – we arrived at Damoy Point. Unlike the rocky terrain of Pleneau, this landing was covered in a pristine blanket of snow – this is what I had been waiting for: the Antarctica I had always imagined. With penguins dashing across the snow and towering mountains rising all around us, I knew this was going to be a day to remember. 

Damoy Point also features a historic hut, which we were able to step inside. It offered a glimpse into the conditions scientists and expeditionists once endured. The day’s activity included a snowshoeing trek across the white expanse and, for the brave, the opportunity to do a Polar Plunge. 

Yes, I did it! I jumped into the Antarctic waters with air temperatures hovering around 0°C and the sea just 1°C. I figured how many people in the world can say they jumped into these waters? It was freezing, exhilarating, and completely surreal. I earned my “Antarctic Plunge Certificate,” and for the record, I couldn’t feel my toes for hours afterwards! After towelling off and thawing out, I jumped straight onto a zodiac and made a beeline for the ship’s sauna to warm up properly. 

It was a fantastic day – one I thought couldn’t possibly be topped. But I was wrong… 

Straight from the Expedition Team’s mouth: “The Expedition Team has seen its fair share of natural wonders, but what we experienced in Orne Harbour left us truly speechless. More than 30 whales in one bay – it’s an astonishing sight, unlike anything we’ve ever encountered. Everywhere we turned, another blow, another fluke, another moment of pure awe. And if that weren’t enough, penguins were everywhere – left, right and centre!”

I couldn’t have said it better myself. 

The skies were grey, and snow was gently falling, which only added to the atmosphere during our zodiac trip. Out on the water, we watched penguins darting around and leaping onto bergy bits (yes, that’s the office term for a small iceberg!). And then came the whales. Dozens of them. Wherever we looked, another surfaced. At one point, our zodiac was surrounded – four whales on each side, so close we could almost feel the spray from their blows. It was a moment of pure wonder and one I’ll never forget.

Dinner that evening was at Fredheim, a casual dining spot onboard with a laid-back atmosphere. The menu features comfort food favourites like burgers, hotdogs, tacos, and milkshakes – perfect if you’re in the mood for something more relaxed after an extraordinary day of adventure. 

Today, we were greeted once again by clear blue skies – ideal conditions for the morning’s activity. I attended a lecture on clouds, which concluded out on deck with a hands-on cloud data collection session. Using a NASA-affiliated app, we logged the cloud formations we observed and our location, contributing real-time data to a global database. This was led by Ashton from the Expedition Team, an environmental scientist who brought the topic to life with passion and expertise. 

We had arrived in Neko Harbour, nestled within the breathtaking Paradise Bay. Surrounded by towering glaciers, we began a steep, snow-covered climb from the rocky beach, using walking poles for stability. While we’d encountered plenty of penguins throughout the trip so far, this felt different – there were so many, each more playful (and noisier) than the last. They showed no hesitation in getting close to us, which made the moment feel even more magical. 

As we continued our climb, the views became more and more spectacular – but nothing could have prepared me for the summit. From the cliff top, we were treated to a dramatic view of a massive glacier wall, and I captured one of my favourite photos of the entire trip: standing in front of the glacier mid-carving, a scene so surreal it barely looked real. 

The journey back down was filled with a real sense of achievement – and, of course, more curious penguins. It was the perfect end to our Antarctic landings and quickly became my favourite day of the expedition. 

That evening, we enjoyed another delicious meal at Aune (named after Tinus Aune, the Norwegian ship chandler and polar expedition supplier), followed by a lively party in the Explorer Lounge. A band made up of crew members performed – and to our surprise, Ted, the onboard Expedition Photographer, was the drummer! The music had everyone up and dancing, and the atmosphere was absolutely brilliant. A perfect end to a perfect day. 

There was a noticeably reflective mood onboard today – it was our last day in Antarctica. We had reached the serene and striking Fournier Bay with one final zodiac cruise ahead of us. By now, we were pros at gearing up quickly, true expeditionists in every sense at this point! As we glided through the icy waters, we were treated to yet another incredible display of wildlife – humpback and minke whales, fur seals, and, of course, penguins. All of this unfolded against a backdrop of some of the most magnificent icebergs we’d seen during the entire expedition.

On this day, I chose to put my phone away. I wanted to soak in every moment – the stillness, the sounds, the sheer beauty of it all. As we returned to the ship, I knew that although we were leaving Antarctica behind, the experience would stay with me forever. That evening, we returned to Lindstrøm for a spectacular farewell dinner. It was the perfect way to mark the end of an unforgettable adventure in one of the most extraordinary places on Earth. 

We were back sailing through the infamous Drake Passage, famous for its choppy waters, often called “The Drake Shake”. The Captain had informed us that we were heading into high winds and heavy seas, so the ship would be picking up speed over the next two days to stay ahead of an approaching storm. 

While the ship picked up a gear, I headed to another lecture – this one focused on Shackleton’s legendary Endurance Expedition, presented by Henryk. We learned all about Ernest Shackleton’s dramatic journey to the Antarctic, and incredibly, Henryk had retraced parts of that expedition himself. By the end of the session, many of us were visibly moved – Henryk has an extraordinary gift for storytelling. 

Between visits to the sauna and hot tub, I made time for another lecture: Stranger Things of Antarctica. While most people know about penguins, whales, seals, and seabirds, this session revealed the bizarre and little-known creatures living beneath the icy waters. From the Antarctic octopus and colossal squid to the Hoff crab (yes, named after David Hasselhoff), the Antarctic scale worm, and even a giant spider – I was fascinated and slightly horrified in equal measure. Let’s just say I never need to see that spider photo again!

After a lovely dinner in Aune, we made our way to the Explorer Lounge for the evening’s entertainment: an onboard auction hosted by Expedition Team member Niek. A self-proclaimed auction enthusiast, Niek surprised everyone with his rapid-fire delivery – he was a natural. Among the items for bid were a hand-drawn map by Ashton and the ship’s flag (which did smell faintly of penguin poop). Proceeds went to the HX Foundation, a charitable organisation established in 2015. Funded by HX’s onboard Green Stay programme, guest donations, and these lively auctions, the Foundation supports impactful projects around the world. It was a fun and memorable night for a great cause. 

It was our final day at sea, and after a rather rocky night, thanks to the infamous Drake Shake, we learned that we’d be arriving in Ushuaia 12 hours earlier than planned to avoid an incoming storm. 

The morning was spent relaxing in the Explorer Lounge, peppermint tea in hand, gazing out across the open water and reflecting on the unforgettable days behind us. After one last swim, a final visit to the sauna, and a leisurely lunch, it was time to start the inevitable task of packing. Our bags were collected in preparation for the next day’s charter flight from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires.

Following dinner, we had the unexpected bonus of an evening ashore in Ushuaia, thanks to our early arrival. It was a welcome chance to stretch our legs and enjoy a taste of local nightlife. We sampled some South American beer, soaking up the atmosphere, before heading back for our final night onboard. 

It was time to begin the long journey home, but not before a few final hours in Ushuaia that morning. As we disembarked the ship for the last time, the entire Expedition Team stood outside to wave us off. After spending so many incredible days learning from them and sharing in their passion, it was a surreal and emotional moment. The Expedition Team are an absolute credit to HX – I couldn’t speak more highly of them. If you ever find yourself onboard, I wholeheartedly recommend taking the time to get to know them. They’re a huge part of what makes this experience so special. 

Before heading to the airport, we wandered through the streets of Ushuaia one last time, soaking up the local culture, and, of course, picking up a few souvenirs to take home as reminders of the adventure of a lifetime. 

One coach journey, three flights, a three-hour drive – and 33 hours later – I was finally home. Exhausted, yes, but overwhelmingly grateful for everything I had just experienced. 

It’s hard to put into the words the beauty, power, and stillness of the Antarctic. If you think it’s not the destination for you, you might be surprised. It challenges your expectations, shifts your perspective, and leaves a lasting impression. As Captain Trond of MS Road Amundsen so perfectly put it: “If you can describe Antarctica, you haven’t been there.”