Elemental Iceland: A captivating circumnavigation

^{Written by Olivia Powling, Digital Communications & PR Manager at ROL Cruise}

Last month, I was lucky enough to experience MS Fridtjof Nansen’s Elemental Iceland: Circular Saga from Reykjavík itinerary, which started and ended in the capital. What drew me to it the most was the complete circumnavigation of Iceland. Often, cruises to Iceland call at other countries along the way, but sailing so close to the coastline, as we did on MS Fridtjof Nansen, meant that we could see as much of Iceland as our seven-day itinerary would allow. And that was a lot! 

What really helped our exploration was HX’s huge catalogue of shore excursions (for our particular itinerary, there were 17 activities to choose from). Each day, an excursion was included free of charge, with the option to book onto other excursions at a supplement. In this blog post, I detail each of our ports of call and our excursion experience, in the hope it inspires your next voyage. 

Read first: A detailed look at MS Fridtjof Nansen’s Polar Outside cabins 

MS Fridtjof Nansen, named after the Norwegian explorer Fridtjof Nansen, joined the HX fleet in 2020 as the second fully hybrid ship. With a capacity of 490 passengers, she is classified as an ultra-small ship, which makes her perfect for sailing close to Iceland’s expansive coastline. 

Onboard, you’ll find a range of amenities that aid your exploration of the world around you. The Science Center on Deck 6 is the core of the onboard experience with state-of-the-art technology and high-tech gadgets. The Explorer Lounge & Bar on Deck 10 is the heart of the ship. The floor-to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of the waters you sail, and the cosy, comfortable seating is a welcome sight after a day exploring. 

Other amenities include a swimming pool and two hot tubs, all of which are located at the aft of Deck 10 and heated by the warmth of the ship’s engine. There is a gym on Deck 7, which I didn’t use (I was on holiday, after all), but the group said it was very well equipped. The spa was fantastic and the back, neck and shoulder massage I had was even better. The Observation Deck was a fantastic spot to watch the world go by or spot wildlife. 

Restaurant Aune is MS Fridtjof Nansen’s main restaurant, and where we dined most frequently. The buffet-style service means there is always something for everyone. Restaurant Fredheim, the ship’s smaller option, is absolutely fantastic with a great menu for daytime dining. I’d highly recommend the chocolate milkshake! Lindstrøm is the only speciality restaurant, and we were lucky enough to dine there once during our cruise. 

Now, let’s look at the itinerary… 

The Elemental Iceland: Circular Saga from Reykjavík itinerary is a seven-night voyage that starts and ends in vibrant Reykjavík and sails to Grundarfjörður, Isafjörður, Akureyri, Husavík, Bakkagerði and Heimaey. It is a truly immersive voyage that gives you the opportunity to explore Iceland’s coastline in its entirety, seeing some of the country’s most captivating sights along the way. 

Grundarfjörður was the first stop on our Icelandic adventure. We arrived in port at midday and had eight hours to explore the northern shores of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Grundarfjörður is a fishing village that has been a centre for trade and commerce for centuries. As you wander around, you certainly notice an industrial feel. But just a few minutes away is the town’s defining feature, Mount Kirkjufell, which we saw up close on our included excursion. 

Our walk began at the port, where we hopped on a bus for a short ten-minute journey to the starting point of our walk. We split off into groups and were guided by two members of the HX Expedition Team, who explained we’d be hiking Mount Kirkjufell anti-clockwise in order to finish at the breathtaking Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall. 

The hike took us around three hours, with short breaks here and there. The terrain was difficult, I found myself climbing, jumping and leaping in places. For that reason, I would highly recommend walking boots and when the Expedition Team offer walking poles, say yes! The walk is well worth it for the panoramic views, especially when you reach the end at Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall. With the mountain as the backdrop, it’s a beautiful sight. What’s more, being up close to such a powerful and thunderous waterfall is amazing. Little did we know, it was just the beginning. 

Our next port of call was Isafjörður, the largest town in the Westfjords. We arrived at eight o’clock in the morning, which gave us plenty of time to explore the vibrant streets of this small fishing town before our excursion later in the day. You might be thinking, “Which is it, the largest town in the Westfjords or a small fishing town?” With a population of less than 3,000, Isafjörður is a small town in the grand scheme of things, but to Iceland, it is huge. 

This excursion required a one-hour and 15-minute coach transfer both ways. Luckily, it was one of the most picturesque coach transfers I’ve ever experienced. As we travelled through the glacier-carved region, we passed remote villages, towering mountains, deep ravines and playful wildlife. Icelandic horses trotted around, and beautiful birds soared overhead. 

Before we knew it, we were greeted by the beauty of Dynjandi waterfall and ready to begin our hike. To get to the top, it takes about 15 minutes without stopping. However, along the way are six smaller waterfalls that you can’t help but marvel at. Once you reach the top, you soon understand where Dyjnandi gets its name from (in Icelandic, dynjandi stands for thunderous). The terrain is fairly uneven on this hike, so again, I would recommend comfortable walking shoes and walking poles, if available. 

Akureyri, often called the Capital of North Iceland, was up next. Of all the places we visited in Iceland, we spent the most time in Akureyri, which coincidentally proved to be one of my favourite ports of call. The town exudes an urban appeal, but travel just a few minutes out and you’re met with untouched wilderness, which we were lucky enough to explore on our lengthy shore excursion. 

Today’s included excursion took us to not one, not two, not three, but four impressive landmarks. Our first stop was Goðafoss, a mighty waterfall that tumbles some 40 feet from the Skjálfandafljót River. We spent time wandering around this natural wonder, taking it all in. After that, we travelled to Lake Mývatn to see the unique Skútustaðir craters. We were also treated to a two-course lunch at a local restaurant. 

Our next stop was Dimmuborgir, a lava labyrinth with rugged volcanic landscapes. We followed our tour guide along one of the trails as he explained how the lava caves are said to be home to the nation’s trolls. In my opinion, the best spot was saved until last, Námaskarð. This otherworldly landmark is a geothermal area on the mountain Námafjall that bubbles and steams. It is unlike anything I’ve experienced. 

Húsavík was the port that I was most looking forward to, and it didn’t disappoint. The small but pleasant town is known to be the best place for whale watching in Iceland, but more on that in a moment. We disembarked MS Fridtjof Nansen as soon as we docked at 10:00 and spent the morning sipping coffee and munching pastries as we wandered the quaint streets before heading to Húsavík Whale Museum, our included excursion for the day.

Ideally located in the town centre, it is easy to accidentally stumble upon the Húsavík Whale Museum, which is exactly what we did. Home to thirteen whale skeletons, it is one of the only museums in the world solely dedicated to whales. One of which is an 82-foot blue whale, the size of which is hard to comprehend without seeing it in the flesh (or bones).  There are eight exhibition rooms which feature a diverse range of displays that you can explore at your own pace. 

When planning our Icelandic adventure, the Original Whale Watching excursion was at the top of my list. Húsavík looks out over Skjálfandi Bay, which regularly welcomes a vast array of whale species. During our three-hour boat trip, hosted by North Sailing, a carbon-neutral tour operator, we were lucky enough to see three humpback whales, all of which were feeding. Watching their tails break through the water as they dived down to feed was unforgettable. Out of all the excursions, this is the one I’d recommend the most. However, it is incredibly popular - we were added to a waitlist initially - and I would highly recommend booking in advance to secure your place. 

The sun shone as we reached our fifth port of call, Bakkagerði. The small fishing village is mainly known for its rich hiking trails and infinite puffin viewing opportunities. Once we’d tendered from the ship, we headed straight to the puffins who nest from mid-April to mid-August in Borgarfjörður. Thanks to the wooden viewing platforms, we could see them up close without disturbing them. It was lovely to watch them potter around in their natural habitat. 

A ten-minute coach transfer took us to the starting point of our Bakkagerði walking tour. The tour, which took just over an hour, gave us an immersive glimpse into the traditional everyday life of this small fishing village. Along the way, we met friendly and welcoming locals who told us about their daily lives. It was really nice to learn about the local area through the people who live it every single day. 

We learnt about the history, culture and architecture of Bakkagerði through a tour of its local church and the old Lindarbakki turf house. We were also told about the legend of the large population of elves that is believed to live in the area. On this excursion, it felt as though the village’s spirit truly came to life. 

Our penultimate port of call was Heimaey. Though the mist lay heavy on the horizon, we spent time discovering what the town had to offer. Heimaey is best known for the 1973 Eldfell volcanic eruption, which dramatically altered the landscape and briefly forced the evacuation of its inhabitants. We learnt more about the effects of this natural disaster on our included excursion. 

Our small group were greeted by our friendly local tour guide as soon as we disembarked MS Fridtjof Nansen. Wrapped up in our complimentary HX expedition jacket (which came in very handy for the duration of our cruise), we began our walking tour. To begin with, our guide provided an overview of the Eldfell volcano eruption that occurred in 1973. Her personal account of the eruption was fascinating and saddening in equal measures. 

As we moved on, we discovered the impact the eruption had had on Heimaey. Lava covered the landscape, and our guide explained what was hidden beneath. The eruption engulfed streets and more than 400 homes and buildings, and the town worked hard in the years after to rebuild normality. It was a stark reminder of the power of Mother Nature. 

You may notice that I’ve missed Reykjavík off the itinerary overview; that’s because your flight times will control how much of the city you get to see. Due to our flight times, we had more time in Reykjavík on our return journey, and HX kindly arranged a coach tour so we could see the highlights. If you’d like a more immersive experience, I’d highly recommend booking a pre- or post-cruise stay in the capital. 

MS Fridtjof Nansen won’t be sailing the waters of Iceland again until next year, but I would definitely recommend considering her for an upcoming voyage. See her impressive catalogue of cruises below.