Join ROL Cruise team member Harriet as she sets off on an unforgettable adventure with Hurtigruten, sailing on a Signature Voyage through the spectacular Norwegian Fjords. Here’s her journey, day by day:
Day 1 – Oslo, Norway
Today was the day – the wait was finally over! After a smooth flight and arrival in Oslo, we caught the train to Oslo city centre, just a short walk from the ship. As soon as we stepped out of the terminal, we could see her – MS Trollfjord, ready and waiting.
At first glance, it was clear that MS Trollfjord was purpose-built to explore more remote fjords and reach ports that larger ships simply can’t access, offering a more authentic coastal experience.
Once on board, check-in was swift and efficient, and we quickly settled into our well-equipped cabins. After a quick freshen-up, I had time to explore the ship before we set sail from Oslo. Now part of Hurtigruten’s Signature Line, MS Trollfjord was refurbished in 2023, blending modern comforts with the line’s signature charm.
Sail away was celebrated on the top deck; with a glass of fizz in hand, we watched Oslo slip away behind us as we began our journey towards Kristiansand. This evening, we dined in Flora, the ship’s main restaurant. The buffet offered a variety of Norwegian dishes, all made with locally sourced produce. We were lucky enough to sample local meats, such as perfectly cooked lamb and beef, alongside freshly caught trout and halibut, complemented by seasonal vegetables. After dinner, we rounded off the evening with a drink or two in the welcoming 1893 Bar.
Day 2 – Kristiansand
Today marked our first full day in Norway! Opening the blinds, I was greeted by bright blue skies and the stunning Norwegian coastline stretching out before me.
After breakfast at Flora, we disembarked the ship – a smooth and simple process, with just a quick scan of our cruise card – and walked to our coach to begin our first excursion of the trip: Highlights of the South Coast & South Cape. This tour truly showcases why southern Norway is such a popular destination. We learned about the rich history of Kristiansand, Norway’s fifth-largest city, and visited Lindesnes Lighthouse, a famous landmark at the South Cape of Norway, where we enjoyed a light lunch made with local produce.
No visit to the south coast would be complete without a stop at Skudeneset Farm and Vineyard, the northernmost vineyard in the world. The final highlight of the tour was a visit and presentation at Under, the world’s largest underwater restaurant. Having earned a Michelin Star and sitting 5.5 metres below sea level, it’s truly an unforgettable experience. Along the way, we witnessed the striking variety of Norway’s changing landscapes.
This evening, we dined in Røst, the fine-dining restaurant on board, inspired by the fish banks of the Lofoten Islands. Every detail here is extraordinary – from the locally sourced produce and expert wine pairings to the beautifully modern décor. Tonight, we were treated to five courses with perfectly matched wines. Two dishes, in particular, stood out: the reindeer tartare – which I’ll admit I was hesitant about but found absolutely delicious – and the final course, a beetroot sorbet with mint foam. It was the perfect ending to the meal: not too sweet, but just enough. We rounded off the evening with a relaxing drink in Bar 1893.
Day 3 – Haugesund
This morning started with an early rise as we met for breakfast at 6:30 am. We were docking at 8:00 am and departing again at 10:00 am, so we wanted to make the most of our time in port.
Breakfast was served in Flora, where there was something for everyone – a particular favourite among our group was the scrambled eggs and the freshly baked pastries.
Once we had finished, we gathered just off the ship to catch the free shuttle bus into town. Another bonus with Hurtigruten is that if they are unable to dock directly in the town centre (though they often can), they provide complimentary shuttle buses for guests. The shuttle dropped us right in the heart of Haugesund, known as the ‘Home of the Viking Kings’. Armed with a free map provided by Hurtigruten, we followed their recommended walking route, taking in the main sights, including the famous pink town hall.
After rejoining the ship, we spent the afternoon scenic cruising through Hardangerfjord – the second-longest fjord in Norway and the fifth-largest in the world. It was a truly magnificent sight; sitting out on deck, surrounded by towering cliffs and shimmering waters, it felt like we had been transported to another world.
This evening, we dined at Aaran, and the food was divine. Aaran offers a wide range of dishes, from burgers and reindeer shanks to mussels and king crab – there really is something for everyone. A firm crowd-pleaser was the burgers, with three different options, each as delicious as the last.
Day 4 – Ålesund
After breakfast, we docked in the town of Ålesund, ready for today’s excursion: the Saga Islands Bus Tour to Alnes.
We boarded our coach and set off, driving over soaring bridges and through subsea tunnels to visit the main islands in the seas surrounding Ålesund, all while learning about the area’s fascinating history.
Our first stop was on the island of Giske, the birthplace of the Viking chieftain Rollo. Here, we visited the 12th-Century Giske Church, built from white marble for one of Norway’s most powerful families. From the church, we also enjoyed a lovely view of Ålesund across the water. We then continued to Godøy and the charming fishing village of Alnes. At Alnes, we visited the lighthouse and climbed the stairs to enjoy the fantastic view from the top. Afterwards, we paused for a welcome tea or coffee, accompanied by delicious locally made cake.
Returning to Ålesund, we learned more about the town’s history, from the devastating fire that destroyed much of the city to the impressive rebuilding effort that gave Ålesund its famous Art Nouveau architecture.
This afternoon, we were treated to a tour of the ship, which allowed us to view the different cabin types. I found all the cabins to be spacious and well-equipped, with comfortable beds, heavenly pillows, and amazing heated bathrooms—perfect for warming up after a day of exploring.
Following the ship tour, our group decided to attend one of Hurtigruten’s daily lectures. They offer two lectures a day, and we found them both engaging and informative. Topics ranged from how Norwegian houses are built to the marine life of the region – and the most popular lecture by far was all about the Northern Lights.
This evening, we dined in Flora, the ship’s main restaurant. The evening menu offers a choice of three starters and mains, plus four tempting desserts. All the food is freshly prepared with locally sourced ingredients, and you can really taste the difference. I started with local ‘hung’ fish, followed by halibut, so tender it melted under my fork, and finished with a rich chocolate cake and some local cheese. Every dish felt like it belonged in a fine-dining restaurant.
Day 5 – Brønnøysund
As we sailed into Brønnøysund, we were immediately struck by how picturesque it is. Sitting on a narrow peninsula, this charming town is filled with colourful houses set against a dramatic backdrop of mountains.
Today, we didn’t have an organised excursion booked, so we decided to follow Hurtigruten’s recommended walking map to explore the area at our own pace. Along the way, we visited local sights such as Kjærlighetsbroa (the Love Bridge), Brønnøy Church — the oldest building in the town — Trollfjell Geopark, and many more. Within the town, there are small local shops, and a shopping area, perfect for picking up souvenirs or gifts to take home for loved ones.
After rejoining the ship, we enjoyed a light lunch in Flora. The afternoon was to be spent at leisure, and I decided to spend some time watching the world go by from the on-board gym, followed by a relaxing session in the sauna to unwind.
This evening, we met in the bar for a pre-dinner drink – the Oslo Mule cocktail is a must-try: refreshingly light and not overly sweet. Afterwards, we enjoyed another delicious dinner in Flora.
After dinner came a special treat: it was time to cross the Arctic Circle! All passengers were invited to the top deck for the Arctic Circle Crossing and Baptism. The atmosphere was lively and full of anticipation as no one quite knew what to expect. There was music, entertainment from the crew and expedition team, and plenty of excitement. As we crossed the Arctic Circle, a spotlight illuminated the Arctic Circle Monument – a globe-shaped statue marking the crossing point.
Next came the baptism: a ladle of icy water and ice cubes was poured down your back (yes, it was very cold!), followed by a celebratory shot – with or without alcohol, depending on your preference. After completing the ceremony, we received an official stamp to commemorate crossing into the Arctic Circle.
Day 6 – Svolvær & Stokmarken
This morning, it felt as though we had awoken in a winter fairytale. Upon opening the blinds, the view was simply spectacular – it was as if a white blanket had been dropped over Norway overnight. All I could see was endless snow.
Earlier in the week, I had decided to book the RIB Sea Eagle Safari. Like our previous excursions, we were informed the day before of our meeting time. After gathering just outside the ship, we took a short walk to the starting point. Upon arrival, we were given warm, waterproof suits to wear – not the most flattering, but absolutely essential, and we were all grateful for them. Once suited up and after a safety briefing, we boarded the RIB and set off the dock. We cruised slowly out of port, but once we hit open water, it was full throttle – the icy wind on our faces was biting but exhilarating.
As we entered the fjord, we were greeted by an incredible sight – not just the breathtaking fjord scenery but also the majestic sea eagles. Watching them glide effortlessly through the air, perch proudly on rocky outcrops, and swoop down to catch their prey was truly magnificent – a dream for any nature enthusiast. After this unforgettable encounter, we returned to the dock and re-boarded the ship to continue our journey.
For lunch, our group dined together at Aaran, and once again, the food was divine. I started with the soup – the depth of flavour was incredible – followed by the much-loved burger, which certainly lived up to the group’s enthusiastic praise.
Later in the afternoon, we headed up on deck for the daily Norwegian Coastal Kitchen tasting, where small samples of local cuisine were offered, giving everyone a chance to try traditional flavours.
That evening, we docked in Stokmarknes, Hurtigruten’s home port, for a few hours. After disembarking, we visited the Norwegian Coastal Express Museum to learn more about Hurtigruten’s fascinating history. Afterwards, we had a short stroll around the area – our time in port was brief, but just enough to explore a little.
Back on board, we headed to Flora for dinner. Tonight, it was a buffet and free seating, as we were in port later than usual.
After dinner, as it was our final night, we gathered for a drink in the bar, reflecting on what a truly incredible week it had been.
Day 7 – Tromsø
This morning started with an early rise. After meeting for breakfast, a few of us decided to take advantage of the free shuttle into Tromsø before our departure. We enjoyed a short walk along the waterfront and caught a lovely view of the Arctic Cathedral from across the water. As it was still quite early, most places were closed, so we decided to hop back on the shuttle and return to the ship.
Once we re-embarked, we headed back to our cabins to get back for check-out. We needed to vacate our cabins by 10:00 am, which was ideal as it gave us a relaxed and unhurried start to the morning. After leaving our cabins, we still had about an hour before disembarkation, so we stored our bags under the stairs in reception — the usual spot where everyone leaves their luggage – and made our way up onto deck one final time to soak in the views and take one last deep breath of the crisp Norwegian air.
